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Saturday, October 16, 2010

Start Fire Using Magnifying Lens

If survivors have sunlight and a magnifying lens, a fire can be started with very little physical effort. Concentrate the rays of the Sun on tinder by using the lens of a lensatic compass, a camera lens, or the lens of a flashlight which magnifies; even a convex piece of bottle glass may work.

Hold the lens so that the brightest and smallest spot of concentrated light falls on the tinder. Once a wisp of smoke is produced, the tinder should be fanned or blown upon until the smoking coal becomes a flame. Powdered charcoal in the tinder will decrease the ignition time.

Add kindling carefully as in any other type of fire. Practice will reduce the time it takes to light the tinder.

Elements of Fire:

a. The three essential elements for successful fire building are fuel, heat, and oxygen. These combined elements are referred to as the “fire triangle.” By limiting fuel, only a small fire is produced. If the fire is not fed properly, there is too much or too little fire.
Green fuel is difficult to ignite, and the fire must be burning well before it is used for fuel. Oxygen and heat must be accessible to ignite any fuel.

b. The survivor must take time and prepare well! Preparing all of the stages of fuel and all of the parts of the fire starting apparatus is the key. To be successful at fire craft, one needs to practice and be patient.

c. The fuels used in building a fire normally fall into three categories relating to their size and flash point: tinder, kindling, and fuel.

(1) Tinder is any type of small material having a low flash point. It is easily ignited with a minimum of heat, even a spark. Tinder must be arranged to allow air (oxygen) between the hair-like, bone-dry fibers.

The preparation of tinder for fire is one of the most important parts of fire craft. Dry tinder is so critical that pioneers used extreme care to have some in a waterproof “tinder box” at all times. It may be necessary to have two or three stages of tinder to get the flame to a useful size.

Tinder includes:

(a) The shredded bark from some trees and bushes.
(b) Cedar, birch bark, or palm fiber.
(c) Crushed fibers from dead plants.
(d) Fine, dry wood shavings, and straw/grasses.
(e) Resinous sawdust.
(f) Very fine pitch wood shavings (resinous wood from pine or sappy conifers).
(g) Bird or rodent nest linings.
(h) Seed down (milkweed, cattail, thistle).
(i) Charred cloth.
(j) Cotton balls or lint.
(k) Steel wool.
(1) Dry powdered sap from the pine tree family (also known as pitch).
(m) Paper.
(n) Foam rubber.

(2) Kindling is the next larger stage of fuel material. It should also have a high combustible point. It is added to, or arranged over, the tinder in such a way that it ignites when the flame from the tinder reaches it. Kindling is used to bring the burning temperature up to the point where larger and less combustible fuel material can be used.

Kindling includes:

(a) Dead dry small twigs or plant fibers.
(b) Dead dry thinly shaved pieces of wood, bamboo, or cane (always split bamboo as sections can explode).
(c) Coniferous seed cones and needles.
(d) “Squaw wood” from the underside of coniferous trees; dead, small branches next to the ground sheltered by the upper live part of the tree.
(e) Pieces of wood removed from the insides of larger pieces.
(f) Some plastics such as the spoon from an in-flight ration.
(g) Wood which has been soaked or doused with flammable materials; that is, wax, insect repellent, petroleum fuels, and oil.
(h) Strips of petrolatum gauze from a first aid kit.
(i) Dry split wood burns readily because it is drier inside. Also the angular portions of the wood burn easier than the bark-covered round pieces because it exposes more surface to the flame. The splitting of all fuels will cause them to burn more readily.

(3) Fuel, unlike tinder and kindling, does not have to be kept completely dry as long as there is enough kindling to raise the fuel to a combustible temperature. It is recommended that all fine materials be protected from moisture to prevent excessive smoke production.

(Highly flammable liquids should not be poured on an existing fire. Even a smoldering fire can cause the liquids to explode and cause serious burns.) The type of fuel used will determine the amount of heat and light the fire will produce.

Dry split hardwood trees (oak, hickory, monkey pod, ash) are less likely to produce excessive smoke and will usually provide more heat than soft woods. They may also be more difficult to break into usable sizes. Pine and other conifers are fast burning and produce smoke unless a large flame is maintained. Rotten wood is of little value since it smolders and smokes.

The weather plays an important role when selecting fuel. Standing or leaning wood is usually dry inside even if it is raining. In tropical areas, avoid selecting wood from trees that grow in swampy areas or those covered with mosses.

Tropical soft woods are not usually a good fuel source. Trial and error is sometimes the best method to determine which fuel is best. After identifying the burning properties of available fuel, a selection can be made of the type needed.

Recommended fuel sources are:

(a) Dry standing dead wood and dry dead branches (those that snap when broken). Dead wood is easy to split and break. It can be pounded on a rock or wedged between other objects and bent until it breaks.
(b) The insides of fallen trees and large branches may be dry even if the outside is wet. The heart wood is usually the last to rot.
(c) Green wood which can be made to burn is found almost anywhere, especially if finely split and mixed evenly with dry dead wood.
(d) In treeless areas, other natural fuels can be found. Dry grasses can be twisted into bunches. Dead cactus and other plants are available in deserts. Dry peat moss can be found along the surface of undercut stream banks. Dried animal dung, animal fats, and sometimes even coal can be found on the surface. Oil impregnated sand can also be used when available.

To purchase one of the Fresno lens used in the video you can go to this link-

Stay Prepared! Stay Alive!


Friday, October 15, 2010

Desert Below-Ground Poncho Shelter

Below-ground Desert Shelter
A below-ground shelter can reduce the midday heat as much as 30 to 40 degrees F. However, building it requires more time and effort than for other shelters.

Since your physical effort will make you sweat more and increase dehydration, construct it before the heat of the day.

To make this shelter, you should—

• Find a low spot or depression between dunes or rocks. If necessary, dig a trench 18 to 24 inches deep, and long and wide enough for you to lie in comfortably.
• Pile the sand you take from the trench to form a mound around three sides.
• On the open end of the trench, dig out more sand so you can get in and out of your shelter easily.
• Cover the trench with your material.
• Secure the material in place using sand, rocks, or other weights.

If you have extra material, you can further decrease the midday temperature in the trench by securing the material 12 to 18 inches above the other cover. This layering of the material will reduce the inside temperature 20 to 40 degrees F.

Below is a similar type shelter.

Above-ground Desert Shelter
The open desert shelter is of similar construction, except all sides are open to air currents and circulation. For maximum protection, you need a minimum of two layers of parachute material. White is the best color to reflect heat; the innermost layer should be of darker material.

Stay Prepared! Stay Alive!


Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Medicinal Use Of Charcoal

Charcoal from your campsite wood fire can be used to treat bad stomach aches as a result of eating something that may be poisonous or from tainted food. Charcoal can be used to treat a serious case of diarrhea.

You should use about one ounce of charcoal slurry every 4-5 hours not to exceed 2 days. It is a good idea to make about 4-5 ounces of powdered charcoal ahead to time to be carried with you while in survival mode.

The charcoal solution will taste bad and it will make you vomit. Try keeping the solution down long enough for it to absorb what ever is on your stomach causing the problems.

Activated Carbon is created by heating Charcoal to very high temperatures under oxidizing conditions. By very high I am talking 600-1200 degrees Celsius. This drives off all of the volatile compounds and leaves a lattice of carbon.

The pores created in this process are so small that they are able to attract and hold the organic molecules that try to pass through. This is done by Van der Walls force. Van der Walls is an attraction at the molecular or sub-molecular level.

In order for it occur the molecules must be in direct contact. This is possible because of the extraordinarily small size of the pore in the activated carbon. As an interesting side note this is the same force that allows a Gecko to walk up a pane of glass.

As for anyone saying that activated Charcoal is of no real use, you should ignore them, because they have no idea what they are talking about. On average granulated activated carbon contains so many pores that there are 500 square meters of surface area per gram.

Powdered activated carbon has even more. That translates into a very large capacity to capture and hold impurities.

The word activated in the name is sometimes replaced with active. Due to its high degree of micro-porosity, just 1 gram of activated carbon has a surface area in excess of 500 mm (about one tenth the size of a football field), as determined typically by nitrogen gas adsorption.

Sufficient activation for useful applications may come solely from the high surface area, though further chemical treatment often enhances the absorbing properties of the material. Activated carbon is usually derived from charcoal.

Remember that the wood used to make the charcoal can not be poisonous. The poison contained in the wood can make you ill or even kill you.

Stay Prepared! Stay Alive!


Emergency Water Filter

Alternative Filter Method

Filtration Hole

This filtration technique only removes the solid particles from water- it does not purify it.

Charcoal is used to eliminate bad odors and foreign materials from the water. The water still needs to be boiled for 10 minutes to purify it or use water purification tablets if available.

Different items can be used for filtering, such as plastic bottles, coffee cans, metal cans, socks, pant legs, shirt sleeves or as shown in the diagrams.

Filtering your water should be done at the minimum if purifying is not an option.

Stay Prepared! Stay Alive!


Sunday, October 10, 2010

Survival Break Down Bow

Bow Diagram


Work bench with mounted vise
3/16" drill bit
Jigsaw or table saw
(4) C-clamps (4-5" span)
Flat metal file
Metal scribe tool or fine tip marker
Metal center punch
3 foot metal straight edge or Yard Stick
Tape measure or ruler
Face shield or goggles


(1) Youth bow and arrow set (fiberglass limbs at least 1/2" wide limbs and 20" long with 18-25 pound pull) (You can buy a similar one HERE)
(1) Hard wood to make the Riser (handle grip) use oak, walnut or similar (you can use aluminum if you have a machine shop and can fabricate this)
(1) Small nail size 2d ( 2 penny nail) (cut the head off)
(1) Can spray paint (what ever color you decide- optional if you don't want to use paint)
(1) Flat steel stock 1" x 1/16" long enough to make 2 pieces 3 1/2" long
(2) Screws #10-24 x 1 1/2" long (found at LOWES)
(2) Screws #10-24 x 2" long (LOWES)
(4) Wing nuts #10 (LOWES)
(8) Flat washers #10 (LOWES)
(4) Lock washers #10 (LOWES)


1. Using a hacksaw, cut off the fiberglass bow limbs where they just meet the hand grip. Ensure both limbs are the same length after the cuts have been made. Use a file and sand paper to make the lengths the same and to smooth off the cuts.

2. Measure the width of the limbs and draw a center line going down the center of the limb starting at the cut end working toward the opposite end. This line only has to be about 5 inches.

3. Look at the diagram and make the measurements for the screw holes. The screw holes in the limbs are the first holes you want to drill. This gives you a template to drill the other remaining holes in the riser and metal plates.

4. Place the limbs in a vise and drill the four holes. If you have a table mounted drill and vise, use this as it gives you a more accurate cut than by doing it free handed.

5. Using the diagram, mark the measurements for the riser (hand grip) and cut them out (13"L x 1 1/4"W x 3/4"H). Do not cut the 1/4" angled cut (the one that is shaded) until after the screw holes have been drilled.

6. Next, make the measurements where the limbs are to be mounted to the riser. The cut end of the limb will go 3 1/2" from each bottom end of the riser as shown in the diagram. Make a mark so that you will know where to put each limb when it's time for the C-clamps and drilling.

7. Place the riser (bottom side facing up) in the vise (place thin pieces of wood on each side of the riser to protect it from the jaws of the vise). The jaws of the vise should be in the center of the riser with about 3/4" of the riser protruding at the top of the vise jaw.

8. Place each limb with the cut ends on the line previously drawn and secure them with two C-clamps for each end of the limb. Leave room where the holes are to be drilled. Ensured that bow string notch at the opposite ends of the limbs are facing toward the top of the riser.

9. Place a metal straight edge alongside both limbs from one end to the other and ensure the limbs are aligned with each other. When the limbs are aligned, you can use the holes, already drilled into the limbs, as a template. Go ahead and drill the holes into the riser.

10. After the holes in the riser are drilled, put the #10 screws through the riser and limbs to ensure a smooth matching fit.

11. Measure the shaded angle cut for the riser and cut it out using a jigsaw or similar cutting device. (You do not have to make this cut if you don't want to. It is for looks only, but you will have to replace the two 1 1/2" screws with 2- 2 " screws.) Sand all the rough edges down using the sandpaper.

12. Measure and cut out the two metal plates. Use the metal file and round of all the sharp angles.

13. Align each metal plate at the cut end of the limbs (bottom side of the limbs). Clamp the plates in place using the C-clamps, leaving room to mark the holes. Using the holes in the limbs as templates, take a metal scribe tool or fine tip marker and draw the holes onto the metal plates.

14. Remove the C-clamps and limbs. Using a center punch and hammer, find the center of each hole on the metal plates and make a mark. This is where the drill bit tip will ride when you drill the holes. The measurement of these holes need to be as close to the ones on the limbs so that everything lines up when putting the bow together. So, measure twice and cut once is the old saying here.

15. Place the metal plates in the vise or drill press if you have one, and drill out each hole. Use the metal file to file off any remaining burrs from drilling.

16. Find the center of the riser (hand grip) and mark the center point on the side where the arrow sits. Make sure the center is width wise and length wise. Using the diagram, make the measurements for the nail (6 1/2" from the end and 3/16" from the bottom upward). Use a drill bit that is one size smaller than the diameter of the nail and drill down 1/4". Hammer in the 3/4" headless nail until it is in 1/4" of an inch. Pre-drilling the hole prevents the wood from splitting when hammering in the nail.

17. Put the bow together. Use the limbs and plates on the same ends they were measured for as they may fit better. Once the bow is together and everything matches up, it is a good idea to mark one end as a set. Take the metal file and file two hatch marks on the side of one of the metal plates and the top of the limb associated with the metal plate. I did this for the top limb combo, so when I put the bow together I use the same set.

18. String the bow and do a test fire.

19. Paint the bow if desired.

20. Make a carrying case for the bow and arrows. (Be creative or use the idea I did on the video)

Arrow Diagram


Copper tube cutter
Small tap and die set
Small hammer
Tape Measure or Yard Stick


(3) Aluminum arrows with fletching and tips already attached. (optional if you are not going to make break down arrows)
(9) Threaded arrow inserts, includes the broad head inserts (inserts must be the size used for the arrow diameter with the threads being 8-32- look under arrow accessories on Internet archery sites or go HERE)
(6) Small rubber O-rings, type used for mounting broad heads to the arrow shaft (look under broad head accessories on Internet archery supply sites, or go HERE)
(1) Tube archery glue or similar (model glue will work)
(3) Threaded rod 8-32 x 2" (LOWES) (these need to be cut to 1 5/16" long)


1. Using a tape measure or yard stick, make a mark 20" from the noch end of the arrow toward the broad head end. The is slightly shorter than the bow limb and will compensate for the addition of the threaded rod.

2. Using a copper tube cutter, cut the arrow at the mark. The cutter should have an attached tool that removes any burrs from the cutting.

3. If the arrow came with a broad head, then it already has a threaded insert and rubber o-ring, if not you will need to insert an insert here. At the point where you made the cut, you will need to add an insert at each cut end. Put a small amount of glue around each threaded insert and put them into the holes. You made need to use a hammer to tap them until they are fully seated. Clean off any excess glue.

4. Measure and cut the threaded rod to a length of 1 5/16". Thread the rod into the inserts where the cuts were made. If the cut end of the threaded rod does not screw in smoothly, then you may have to clean the threads using a tap and die set, or a thread file if you have one. Clean up the threads until both ends can be screwed into the inserts.

5. The threaded rod will be permanently attached to the lower half of the arrow, so put some glue on the lower quarter part of the threaded rod and screw into place. Allow the glue to dry.

6. When putting the arrow together, make sure you place an o-ring between the two halves before screwing them together. This keeps the arrow from coming loose at the threads. Make sure the broad head has an o-ring as well.

Note: I will be designing a fletching cover for the arrows to protect them when they are stored in the carrier. I will make a future post update when I have one perfected.

Tip: Put extra parts for your bow in a small candy tin or plastic box. (extra screws, washers, wing nuts, o-rings, bow string, arrow tips, etc.)

To download a PDF version of the instructions, click on the download button below.

I hope you enjoyed this post. It took a lot of time and effort to put this post together. It was fun making this bow and I had just as much fun shooting it. This bow works well. I may try and take large game with it in the near future- that is if I can ever get drawn for the hunts around here. I try and video the hunt and post it.

Stay Prepared! Stay Alive!


Friday, October 8, 2010

The Mighty Mesquite

There are 3 common species of mesquite: Honey Mesquite (Prosopis glandulosa), Screwbean Mesquite (Prosopis pubescens ) and Velvet Mesquite (Prosopis velutina).

Mesquite pods were good sources of calcium, manganese, iron, and zinc.

The seeds within them are about 40 percent protein, almost double the protein content of common legumes. Even during a drought, mesquite is a prolific producer of seed-filled pods.

Honey Mesquite
Honey Mesquite:

Honey Mesquite has a rounded crown and crooked, drooping branches with feathery foliage and straight, paired spines on twigs. This tree normally reaches 20–30 ft but can grow as tall as 50 ft. It is considered to have a medium growth rate. Honey Mesquite coppices due to latent buds underground, making permanent removal difficult. A single-trunked tree that is cut down will soon be replaced by a multi-trunked version.

It flowers from March to November with pale, yellow, elongated spikes and bears straight, yellow seedpods. The seeds are eaten by a variety of animals, such as Scaled Quail. Other animals, including deer, Collared Peccaries, and jackrabbits, feed on both pods and vegetation.

Velvet Mesquite
Velvet Mesquite:

Prosopis velutina, commonly known as Velvet mesquite, is a small to medium sized perennial tree. It is a legume adapted to a dry, desert climate. Though considered to be a noxious weed in states outside its natural range, it plays a vital role in the ecology of the Sonoran Desert.

Velvet mesquite is native to the Sonoran, Mojave, and Chihuahuan Deserts. It grows at elevations below 4,000 to 5,000 feet in desert grasslands and near washes. The main distribution is in central and southern Arizona and in adjacent Sonora Mexico. Near waterways mesquites can form deciduous woodlands called bosques.

Velvet Mesquite can grow to 30–50 ft tall or more. It grows larger in areas with ample water, smaller in open, dry grasslands. The youngest branches may be green and photosynthetic. Young bark is reddish-brown and smooth. As it matures, it becomes a dark, dusty gray or brown and takes on a shredded texture. Yellow thorns up to one inch long appear on the young branches. The leaves are about 3-6 in long, fine, and bipinnately compound.

Screw Bean Mesquite
 Screw bean mesquite:

The native range of screwbean mesquite extends from southeastern California west into southern Nevada, extreme southwestern Utah, southern and western Arizona, southwestern and south-central New Mexico, western Texas and northern Mexico, including Baja California, Sonora, Chihuahua, and Coahuila.

The Value of Mesquite

A healthy stand of mesquite produces as much food value through its pods as does a wheat field under cultivation, and the mesquite does it without capitalization, pesticides, fertilizer or irrigation and with minimal cultivation."

Mesquite flour from grinding the whole pods produces fructose, which can be processed without insulin, and soluble fibers, which are slowly absorbed, without a rapid rise in blood sugar.

Dr. Nabhan, who has participated in medical studies of mesquite and other desert foods, said that despite its sweetness, mesquite flour (made by grinding whole pods) "is extremely effective in controlling blood sugar levels" in people with diabetes. The sweetness comes from fructose, which the body can process without insulin. In addition, soluble fibers, such as galactomannin gum, in the seeds and pods slow absorption of nutrients, resulting in a flattened blood sugar curve, unlike the peaks that follow consumption of wheat flour, corn meal and other common staples.

Mesquite beans are usually harvested after they turn hard and golden. Both the pods and the seeds (which are very tough) are ground into meal. The native people sprinkled the ground meal with a little water to form small, round cakes. Later, slices of dried cake were fried like mush, used to thicken stews, or eaten raw. The meal is also used as flour to make flat bread. Mesquite meal is gluten free.

The pods of mesquite beans are very sweet and the sweetness comes from fructose which doesn’t require insulin to be metabolized. The seeds contain about 35% protein, much more than soybeans. Mesquite pods contain about 25% fiber. Some research suggests that mesquite meal, with a low glycemic index of 25, helps regulate blood sugar.

Mesquite flour is used to make a refreshing drink. If allowed to ferment, a mixture of water and mesquite flour produces a fizzy alcoholic drink.

Mesquite flowers are collected and boiled to make tea. The flowers are also roasted and pressed into balls as another food source.

Medicinal Uses

The black tar or sap of mesquite trees can be boiled and diluted with water to make eye wash and an antiseptic for open wounds. It was also used on sore lips, chapped skin, as a sunburn lotion, and as a treatment for venereal disease.

A liquid made from boiling the inner bark of the tree was used as a laxative and as an emetic.

Tea made from mesquite leaves was used for headaches and stomach trouble. This tea also was used to cure conjunctivitis and to heal painful gums.

Mesquite Tea

Among the 3 species of mesquites in the desert, Honey Mesquite (Prosopis glandulosa) is most preferred for brewing tea. Place 8 or 9 green or dry yellow twigs in a cup. Fill with boiling water, cover and steep 20 minutes. Or boil 24 seed pods in a pot for one hour. This sweet, mild tea has a vanilla-like flavor. It was used by Native Americans to treat diarrhea and stomach ulcers.

Other Uses

The mesquite can be used for- food, medicine, shade, shelter, weapons (bows, arrows, wooden knife, throwing stick, etc.), tools (handles, digging sticks, improvised sowing needles), trap making, fire, and cooking. This makes the mesquite a very versatile survival plant.

To some the mesquite is a pesky weed, to many it is a way to survive.

Stay Prepared! Stay Alive!


Apply efforts to the preservation of vegetation (including Velvet Mesquite) on our planet with the Online Solar Panels LLC company.

Twitch-Up Snare

Twitch-up Snare

A simple twitch-up snare uses two forked sticks, each with a long and short leg. Bend the twitch-up and mark the trail below it. Drive the long leg of one forked stick firmly into the ground at that point.

Ensure the cut on the short leg of this stick is parallel to the ground. Tie the long leg of the remaining forked stick to a piece of cordage secured to the twitch-up. Cut the short leg so that it catches on the short leg of the other forked stick. Extend a noose over the trail.

Set the trap by bending the twitch-up and engaging the short legs of the forked sticks. When an animal catches its head in the noose, it pulls the forked sticks apart, allowing the twitch-up to spring up and hang the prey.

NOTE: Do not use green sticks for the trigger. The sap that oozes out could glue them together.

Use the techniques shown on the Trapping Basics 101 video to mask the human scent.

Stay Prepared! Stay Alive!


Monday, October 4, 2010

Locating Water in Desert/Mountain Terrain

Locations For Finding Water

Water Indicating Plants:

The following trees, shrubs or plants are a good indicator that water in near as they require a lot of water to survive:

Desert willow has thin leaves 5 or more inches long, less than 1/2 inch wide. Long seed pods. Pods stay on all winter. Found in washes from 2,000 feet to 4,500 feet.

Netleaf Hackberry has a leaf with an "off-center" somewhat heart shaped appearance. Found along washes, 2,000 to 5,500 feet. Brushy plant 3 to 10 feet high and has small edible berries.

Desert Palms grow mainly in southern California in the Mohave Desert. They have a large palmate leaf and a thick ragged trunk. They grow quite tall.

Cattails have a large pointed leaf which looks rather like a grass. The seed pods are distinctive and easily noticeable in the fall. They grow in low marshy areas or wide, shallow stream beds.

Cottonwood Tree grows 40 to 80 feet in height. It has a broad open crown of widely spreading branches. Cottonwoods grow only in wet soil and are found along lakes, riverbanks and irrigation ditches throughout the southwest.

Desert Rain Fall Patterns:

The Sonoran Desert is located in Arizona and northern Mexico. As one moves westward across this desert, the yearly precipitation increases from 1.2 inches to 14 inches a year. The Sonoran Desert has two rainy seasons, with most of the rain occurring during the winter and the remainder in summer. Summer rains consist of violent thunderstorms which can drench one area briefly while leaving the area a scant mile away completely dry.

The Chihuahuan Desert has its rainy season in the summer, when it receives between 70 and 80 percent of its three to twenty inches of precipitation. Summer temperatures will average 10 to 20 degrees lower than those in the Sonoran Desert. Most of this desert is located in Mexico, with a small portion extending north into Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona.

In rocky terrain, remember not to forget to look for potholes in bedrock and other rocky areas for possible pools of water. These pools will most often contain debris and small animal life, such as larvae that live in the water. These water sources will need to be purified.

Stay Prepared! Stay Alive!


Friday, October 1, 2010

Treadle Spring Snare

Treadle Spring Snare

Use a treadle snare against small game on a trail. Dig a shallow hole in the trail. Then drive a forked stick (fork down) into the ground on each side of the hole on the same side of the trail.

Select two fairly straight sticks that span the two forks. Position these two sticks so that their ends engage the forks. Place several sticks over the hole in the trail by positioning one end over the lower horizontal stick and the other on the ground on the other side of the hole.

Cover the hole with enough sticks so that the prey must step on at least one of them to set off the snare. Tie one end of a piece of cordage to a twitch-up or to a weight suspended over a tree limb.

Bend the twitch-up or raise the suspended weight to determine where you will tie the trigger. The trigger should be about 2 inches long. Form a noose with the other end of the cordage. Route and spread the noose over the top of the sticks over the hole.

Place the trigger stick against the horizontal sticks and route the cordage behind the sticks so that the tension of the power source will hold it in place. Adjust the bottom horizontal stick so that it will barely hold against the trigger.

As the animal places its foot on a stick across the hole, the bottom horizontal stick moves down, releasing the trigger and allowing the noose to catch the animal by the foot. Because of the disturbance on the trail, an animal will be wary. You must therefore use channelization.

To increase the effectiveness of this trap, a small bait well may be dug into the bottom of the hole. Place some bait in the bottom of the hole to lure the animal to the snare.

Use the techniques shown in the Trapping Basics 101 video for masking the human scent.

Stay Prepared! Stay Alive!


Improvised Survival Slingshot

Improvised Slingshot

The slingshot is a very versatile weapon often overlooked by many as just a child's toy. About 20 years ago it was just a child's toy until it was modified into what it has become today. Its takes very  little practice to learn to shot one effectively, either for target practice or for hunting.

As better ways of making the slingshot evolved, so did the way it was used. Today the slingshot is used for hunting small game, having fun shooting at targets, competition shooting, and survival purposes. The slingshot has been modified to the extent that it can now be used to shoot arrows for hunting bigger game and for fishing.

The slingshot it quiet, so catching more game is possible since you do not scare the rest of the game away as you would with a gun.

Substitute for rubber tubing:

Surgical tubing
Bike inner tube
Car inner tube
Bungee cord
Large wide rubber bands
Latex Bands

Learning to use and make slingshots will give you a better chance and more choices when you need something in a survival situation to catch game or to use as protection.

Stay Prepared! Stay Alive!