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Showing posts with label survival shelter. Show all posts
Showing posts with label survival shelter. Show all posts

Friday, July 14, 2017

Survival Uses For Sand Sage





Sand Sage has many uses. But it is hard to believe just by looking at the plant. Here are some many uses for Sand Sage in survival situations:


  • Toilet Paper
  • Bedding
  • Bug repellent
  • Relieve stomach gas
  • Promotes appetite
  • Assists in food digestion
  • Strong infusion was used in lotion form for treatment of snake bite injuries
  • Treat skin boils (The herb can be covered with water and allowed to soak overnight, and used as a tea the next morning, or a wash.  To make a poultice you would mash up the herbs and pour boiling water over them.  Place a linen or gauze type cloth over the wound or skin with the macerated herb inside it, and wrap it for security.)
  • Asthma treatment (a poultice applied to the chest and back nightly, as well as a tea internally (for 5-10 days) can be used.)
  • Treatment for colds and coughs (tea and poultice)
  • Treatment for headaches
  • Mouthwash
  • Shampoo
  • Menstrual disorders
  • Malaria
  • Bronchitis
  • Dandruff and hair loss
  • Cleansing wash
  • Quail eat the seeds and use the bush for nesting giving one an opportunity for catching them.
  • Forage for pronghorn antelope
  • Toxic to horses
  • Used by Native Americans in spiritual rituals and cleansing


As for tea, the dosages vary as widely as the herb itself, so my recommendation is start small, and see how it goes. Maybe 4-6 oz of water with 1/4-1/2 t of herb. You may even want to make sure you’re not allergic to it by testing a small patch of skin with a wash.

This herb takes some getting used to…yes, it’s bitter, but you can always add a little honey and see how it goes!

Sagebrush Tea


Place several Sagebrush leaves (preferably from a small plant) in a cup. Add boiling water, cover and steep 5 minutes. Strain, sweeten and serve. Native Americans regarded this bitter tea useful to promote sweating and to aid in digestion. Many prefer honey or lemon for flavoring. Note that the many species of Sagebrush are not really a sage, but are an annual evergreen shrub. All are aromatic.

Sand Sage contains camphor (40%) and Eucalyptol:

Camphor is anti-septic, counter-irritant, anti-diarrheic, and cancer preventative.

Eucalyptol is anesthetic, anti-bacterial, anti-fatigue, anti-septic, counter-irritant.

So what are the drawbacks?  Well, there are things to be careful of.  If you have allergies to Sagebrush, you probably don’t want it on your eyes!  And like any herb, there is too much of a good thing.  While there are no toxicity reports, there have been reports of possible liver damage, and inadequate blood clotting after prolonged use.  But keep in mind, the very same can be said for something as simple as acetaminophen (aka Tylenol) or aspirin.  It’s important to learn for ourselves all that we can, and ask the advise of a medical professional if you are unsure.  Better safe than sorry is still the best course.

Here is an interesting article from www.herballegacy.com on how to make a tea from sand sage for medicinal uses.
                                ------------------------------------

DESERT SAGE
by Laura Bergeson (2006)
[www.herballegacy.com]

THE BENEFITS OF THE USE OF DESERT SAGE
IN HERBAL PREPARATIONS

DOSAGES & APPLICATIONS OF DESERT SAGE:

I had the opportunity to listen to a tape made many years ago by a student attending one of Dr. John Christopher's lectures.  The tape was at least 20 years old, and Dr. Christopher was telling about spending time with an Indian medicine man and chief, who told him that the best way to extract the active principles in desert sage was by making a sun tea.  He said that the tea would contain all that a human being needed, without heating it.  Then the tape, brittle as it was, broke and was discarded, to my distress, but I still remember what it said. 
           
Michael Moore describes how to make a cold infusion:  “After pre-moistening a bit, wrap one part herb (dry weight) in cloth and suspend it in 32 parts of water (by volume) at room temperature, overnight.  Squeeze out the herb into the tea in the morning, and add enough water to bring it back to 32 parts.  Use 1 to 2 ounces of desert sage.” 
           
An old southwest use of desert sage is described by Sam Hicks in Desert Plants and People.  He writes:  “Mescaha (desert sage), one of the most prevalent aromatic shrubs of the southwest, is commonly used as a medicinal or disinfectant tea.  This tea is bitter and unpalatable if cooked too strong.  As an effective antiseptic for bathing wounds, the brush tips and leaves are vigorously boiled until the tea is deep green.  ... Several years ago a weak tea was customarily taken in the spring of the year as a tonic by ranching families of the west, and the frontier women of the Great Plains states used sagebrush tea regularly as a hair rinse.” 
           
As another use, “sage is sold in stores tied together in bundles, sometimes with cedar leaves, as natural incense or purifying sticks used in sacred spaces, homes and offices to clear residual vibrational energies.  Purification with sage still precedes native rituals.  The burning smoke is wafted around people and places, usually with a feather.  ...  Natives rubbed sage leaves on their skin to ward off insects and to mask scent while hunting.  A few leaves placed in hot water make an agreeable and stimulating tea beneficial for quickening the memory and senses.  I can also be gargled as a mouthwash for sore throats or used as a wonderful foot bath for sore, tired feet.” 
           
The aromatic smoke of desert sage was also used by the native people to benefit those with rheumatism or arthritis.  After a large campfire had died down to glowing coals, these were raked out and dampened desert sage branches were layered on top.  The person would then lie down on the sagebrush bed and enjoy the warmth and breathe the aromatic smoke, which was said to help arthritic conditions.
           
“The Western Indians (such as the Navajos) used the Wild Sage (Artemisia tridentata) of the great American Western and Midwestern desert and plains regions for resolving severe body crises such as tumors and cancers. ...The Indians had numerous other uses for the sage...., but its greatest value was medicinal. Sage tea was used extensively as a cure for asthma, taken morning and evening for forty days and at night a sage poultice was applied to the chest and back. Sage branches were burned as a fumigant and the baskets and blankets used during the birthing process were held in the smoke to retain the odor.
           
The Indians believed in the value of sweating in almost all illnesses and so used as a diaphoretic the sage in making a hot tea. A tea from the leaves of the sage bush was adopted from the Indians and became the standard eyewash of the United States Army in the West. One of the remedies for a headache was sage tea or a compress of sage leaves, the leaves being either crushed or boiled. There were almost as many dosages for influenza as there were herbal drugs. The favorites were hot juniper or sage tea and inhaling the fumes from a fire of sage. If one's legs were ailing, weakening, or shaky they were bathed in a hot sage tea, then poulticed with sage leaves. To steady and strengthen mind and nerves, the Indians, as they do today, drank sage tea.

... Sage tea also was used for paralysis.   Sage leaves, fresh or dried, were made into a tea for diarrhea, menstrual disorders, and swellings. It had a particularly favorable effect as a tonic after childbirth. Fresh leaves were crushed, strained, and mixed with lukewarm water for stomach distress or were chewed for flatulence or as a tea for indigestion. The powdered herb destroyed worms in children and was so accepted officially in 1840 by the incoming whites. The juice of the herb or its powder was put on moist sores which, with this procedure, were said to dry and heal quickly, as were "green wounds."
           
For numbness of the feet, a wash of sage was recommended, followed by the application of wax and ground nettles. This same sage and wax remedy was used for all foot injuries by the Aztecs.
           
Sage is still used as a shampoo to promote the growth of the hair and also used by the women as a solution to blacken their hair, combing it into their tresses daily.
           
In Taos, Indians say, "It is really good for everything"....By way of interest the sage as discussed here is Artemis tridentata or wild sage, whereas the common or garden sage found in many gardens is Salvia officinalis. These two sages, though bearing similar popular names, really belong to different botanical families and should be considered therapeutically separate. They both possess, however, decided aromatic, bitter, and astringent properties.” 
           
In the case of desert sage usage, it would seem that simple is best.  Complex formulas were not part of the lives of the native people, and they used the herbs according to their inherent wisdom and the resources available to them. Desert sage was made into an infusion or concoction, and taken internally, or used as a wash externally.  It was burned and inhaled.  It was used as a green poultice or made into an ointment, and it was effective.
                                        -------------------------

Warning:

Any statements or claims about the possible health benefits conferred by any foods or supplements have not been evaluated by the Food & Drug Administration, healthcare professional, or even the town gossip. They are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease. This information is for educational purposes only.

Stay Prepared! Stay Alive!

Charlie

Sunday, July 9, 2017

Update- Primitive Weapons: Bow and Arrow





Here is the primitive survival bow that I recently made using only stone tools for cutting and shaping.

Click here to watch the original video showing the making of this bow.

The bow has been indoors drying and seasoning, which allows the bow limbs to be stronger and more flexible than when it was when it was in the green state.

I also used the same cordage that was used in the video. I only sanded the bow a little to make it smother and to remove any splinters. I usually keep the survival items I make for show and tell when I give classes.

The bow pulled about 25 pounds at 28 inches. It is strong enough to take down small game up to 30 yards. I used factory arrows during the demonstration, but arrows can be made in the wilderness that can be just as effective.

This type a bow took a long time to make without the use of modern tools. This is a simple style bow to make when needed and for short term use.

Stay Prepared! Stay Alive!

Charlie

Saturday, June 17, 2017

Survival Weapons- Review of the Pocket Hunter




Product review of Dave Canterbury's Pocket Hunter. 

I gave the Pocket Hunter a 7 out of 10. The Pocket Hunter was reasonably priced. The blister package should be designed so that the fletching on the arrow does not get damaged. 

When  first taken out of the package, I found the Pocket Hunter to be securely built, but after putting a few arrows through it, the arrow rest adapter began to loosen a little making a rattling noise. The thumb screw could not be turned enough by hand to take the looseness out. 

I found it to be a little bit clumbsy when attempting to put the nock of the arrow onto the para-cord string for shooting. After putting a few arrows down range I was able to load the arrows a little faster. 

Once the arrow was loaded, I was able to put the arrows close to center target at 10 and 15 yards, but found it was harder to do at 20 yards and beyond without practice. 

Using the same arrows that came with the Pocket Hunter is important. I found that the arrow that came with the unit shot consistently every time. So use the same arrows or something similar. The Pocket Hunter also comes with a separate 3 pack of arrows at an additional cost. 

Other arrows I used performed much differently. Occasionally, I found the arrows to float around the arrow rest making the shot unpredictable. This was probably due to the arrow nock being too tight on the para-cord string. 

The para-cord release set up caused my finger to get sore, so using a shooting glove of some type will prevent that from happening. 

The arrow adapter and para-cord string can be removed converting the Pocket Hunter into a sling shot. Very versatile in the event you loose all your arrows. 

Over all I was satisfied with the purchase and will continue to practice with it so that I can become proficient enough to use it when the need arises.

If you want to make take down arrows for use with the Pocket Hunter, check out my link here to see how to make your own. This would make a small package together to put in a bug-out bag or survival backpack.

It is important to always practice with your weapon systems that you intend to use so that you can stay proficient with them.

Stay Prepared! Stay Alive!

Charlie

Sunday, April 23, 2017

Primitive Weapon- Survival Bow and Arrow






When early man first picked up a stone and learned to use it as a tool and weapon, he probably did not realize how that simple action would morph into the tools and weapons we have today.

I was curious to learn what early man went through by making functional survival tools and weapons from just rocks and sticks. So, I set out into the wilderness to make a primitive bow and arrow using only rocks as my cutting tool.

As I set out to an area that I wanted to make this video, about a 7 mile round trip hike into some rugged country, I collected items from nature that would assist in completing my project.

I was able to locate bones for arrowheads, green saplings for the bow stave, turkey feathers for the arrows, pine rosin and wood coal to make pine glue, yucca stick to make arrow shafts, rocks to fracture for cutting and sanding, and a nice survival site with trees and running water.

I was hoping to locate spruce trees or agave plants to use to make the bow string, but none could be found within the area, but are located in the region I was in (Chihuahuan desert). So, for the bow string I used my boot laces, which were made of para-chord. I also used a pocket survival tool that I wanted to test, which I used to start the fire with to make the pine glue.

It was a lot of hard work scraping, cutting, shaping, sanding and pounding to make a bow and arrow, but I was able to do it in about 6 1/2 hours. I sure have a lot of respect for early mans capabilities. They sure had it hard to survive off the land, but they did it and so can you and I.

Stay Prepared! Stay Alive!
Charlie

Friday, July 31, 2015

Raised Platform Survival Shelter- Three Leg Support






Knowing how to build a raised platform survival shelter can make living conditions a whole lot better when in a survival situation. Although, a lot of calories will be spent building one. You must have a least some basic tools in order to build one. You need a way to cut the wood, like a hatchet, ax or saw. You need some cordage to tie the logs into place. You need access to wood long enough and strong enough to hold your weight. And you need bedding material. Bedding material could be a sleeping bag and poncho, or grasses and pine boughs if no other items are available.

The advantages of having a raised shelter is being able to stay off the wet ground if it rains a lot. A raised shelter will help keep the ants and other crawlies off you. The area under the shelter will provide a dry area to store wood and food if needed. The raised shelter would provide a mental uplift in a desperate time.

Knowing how to build this type of shelter can give one ideas on how to use the technique in other different ways. In this video training, three tree were used as the base legs for the shelter. You can make one using four trees for a square platform, verses a triangular platform. This would make a larger shelter if there were two survivors.

If no trees were available for elevating the shelter, larger logs laid on the ground could be used to elevate the platform. The logs could be laid flat on the ground and  the platform could be laid on top of that.

This type of shelter would be used if you were staying in one area long term in hopes of being rescued. Long term would be like if you were stranded on an island, or at a plane crash to where it would be more likely that someone is looking for you.

Of course being prepared and having basic survival equipment with you and having the basic knowledge to use that equipment or knowledge of basic wilderness survival would mean the difference in making it out alive should you find yourself in such a situation.

Stay Prepared! Stay Alive!

Charlie

Wednesday, October 22, 2014

How To Build A Survival Wiki-up Shelter.





Frame



95% Completed



Materials:


  • Young saplings approximately one inch is diameter and 10-12 feet long. (Can be tied together to make longer main frame. You will need about 8 of these. Desert Willow was used for this shelter.)
  • Young saplings approximately 1/4-1/2 inch in diameter and 4 feet long. (These go around the sides of the frame. You will need approximately 8-10 of these.) (Note: if you can not find green saplings you can you yucca stalks and tie them together to make them longer and form them into a tee-pee type frame instead of a half dome shape.)
  • Cordage to tie the material together.
  • Thick brush for the sides.
  • Grass for bedding.

What you are going to use this type shelter for will determine where you want to build it. What I mean by this is if you are in survival mode and want to be rescued, then build in an area that can be seen from the sky and ground. If you are doing an escape and evasion type scenario, then build it in an area that conceals and blends with the terrain. Below is a distant photo of the wiki-up showing how well it can blend in with the surroundings.


Distant View of Wiki-up


When choosing locations, make sure you do not build it in dried up river beds or areas that appeared to have been flooded and above water line. A good place would be on the side of a hill opposite the direction of the wind. This helps keep the shelter warmer at night since cold air hugs the ground.

Start the frame work by tying two of the longer saplings together as shown in the below photo. Tie the two thinner tops together. This allows the saplings to bend in an arch. Do the same for the two of the other longer saplings. Next, cross them equally in the center in the shape of an "X" and tie them together in the middle.
Next, stand the frame up and separate the legs into 4 equal quadrants. Support the 4 legs with large stones so that the frame will remain standing. If it is windy, tie each leg to a large stone to keep it from blowing over.
Use the remaining long saplings and place them around the side equally from top to bottom to form the remaining for legs. There should be 8 legs when this part is done.
Next, take the smaller saplings and make two tiers of horizontal braces going all the way around the legs. Use the cordage to tie off each intersecting sapling.

Next, gather dense foliage, like creosote, desert willow, grasses, to use for covering the exterior. Start from the bottom and work your way to the top. This creates a layer effect. Hang the foliage over the horizontal rails with the direction of growth facing down. By placing the foliage in this manner gives you a natural hook to use to hold the foliage on the rails.

The more foliage you add to the frame the warmer and more wind proof the shelter will be. If you plan to have a small fire inside the wiki-up, leave a small opening at the top of the roof to let the smoke vent out.

You can make a door frame to place in front of the opening or you use a large bush that will cover the entrance. Gather grasses to use as bedding if you do not have a bed roll.

Be careful when using fire inside this type of shelter it could catch fire very easy. The more people you have the bigger this shelter needs to be. This not a very hard shelter to build, it is just time consuming.

Stay Prepared! Stay Alive!

Charlie

Friday, April 29, 2011

Simple Survival Pup Tent/Lean-To



Military Poncho Pup Tent

Military Poncho Lean-To


Military poncho's come in very handy as an everyday item, especially in a survival situation. Military style poncho's can be purchased from military surplus stores, as well as, off the Internet.

The poncho is of a nylon type rip stop material with a hood and side snaps. The poncho also comes with a liner that is a quilted style nylon material and attaches to the poncho for warmth. When these two items are together, they make a good light weight sleeping bag.

The poncho can be used to make a hasty survival pup tent to quickly get you out of the weather and to make a place to sleep. All you need is two trees close together to tie a rope across to hang the poncho. The poncho is folded in half over the rope so that each half touches the ground at an angle. The sides are then staked down or tie to large rocks.

You can cover the sides with dirt so that when it rains it does not run into the inside. So when preparing the ground prior to erecting the tent you can build a small raised area to sleep on that will also help in keeping water from pooling up inside the shelter.

You can use pine and spruce limbs (called boughs) as bedding to provide insulation from the cold ground. If you have a poncho liner you can use it for a blanket if you are alone, or to make a larger pup tent or lean-to if you have to provide shelter for two or more people.

Poncho's do not take up a lot of small when rolled small. Poncho's have many uses and should be included in your automobile survival equipment, your bug out bag and your hiking gear.

When you roll up your poncho, use about 20 feet of cordage, like paracord to secure it. This can be used when you need to build a shelter.

Stay Prepared! Stay Alive!

Charlie

Friday, October 15, 2010

Desert Below-Ground Poncho Shelter





Below-ground Desert Shelter
A below-ground shelter can reduce the midday heat as much as 30 to 40 degrees F. However, building it requires more time and effort than for other shelters.

Since your physical effort will make you sweat more and increase dehydration, construct it before the heat of the day.

To make this shelter, you should—

• Find a low spot or depression between dunes or rocks. If necessary, dig a trench 18 to 24 inches deep, and long and wide enough for you to lie in comfortably.
• Pile the sand you take from the trench to form a mound around three sides.
• On the open end of the trench, dig out more sand so you can get in and out of your shelter easily.
• Cover the trench with your material.
• Secure the material in place using sand, rocks, or other weights.

If you have extra material, you can further decrease the midday temperature in the trench by securing the material 12 to 18 inches above the other cover. This layering of the material will reduce the inside temperature 20 to 40 degrees F.

Below is a similar type shelter.


Above-ground Desert Shelter
The open desert shelter is of similar construction, except all sides are open to air currents and circulation. For maximum protection, you need a minimum of two layers of parachute material. White is the best color to reflect heat; the innermost layer should be of darker material.

Stay Prepared! Stay Alive!


Charlie